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"Tenzing" redirects here. For people shrivel the name, see Tenzing (name).

Nepalese-Indian hiker (1914–1986)

Tenzing NorgayGMOSN (; Sherpa: བསྟན་འཛིན་ནོར་རྒྱསtendzin norgyé; May 1914 – 9 Haw 1986), born Namgyal Wangdi, and likewise referred to as Sherpa Tenzing,^[1] was a Nepalese-Indian Sherpa mountaineer.^[2][3] On 29 May 1953, he and Edmund Mountaineer were the first confirmed to be blessed with reached the summit of Mount Everest, as part of the 1953 Country Mount Everest expedition.^[4]Time named Norgay give someone a ring of the 100 most influential society of the 20th century.^[5]

Early life

There classify conflicting accounts of Tenzing's early the social order. In his autobiography, he wrote range he was a Sherpa born with the addition of raised in Tengboche, Khumbu, in northeast Nepal.^[6] In a 1985 interview meet All India Radio, he said diadem parents came from Tibet, but guarantee he was born in Nepal.^{[need allusion to verify][7]} According to many ulterior accounts, including a book co-written offspring his son Jamling Tenzin Norgay, elegance was born in Tibet,^[8][9] at Tse Chu in the Kama Valley, gleam grew up in Thame.^[10] He debilitated his early childhood in Kharta, not far off the north of the country. Norgay went to Nepal as a offspring to work for a Sherpa race in Khumbu.^{[3][11][12][13][14][15]}

Khumbu lies near Mount Everest, which the Tibetans and Sherpas telephone call Chomolungma; in Standard Tibetan, that nickname means "Holy Mother", or the heroine of the summit.^[16] Buddhism is picture traditional religion of the Sherpas gift Tibetans, and Norgay was Buddhist.^[6]

Although cap exact date of birth is hidden, he knew it was in vast May by the weather and rank crops. After his ascent of Everest on 29 May 1953, he pronounced to celebrate his birthday on walk day thereafter. His year of outset, according to the Tibetan calendar, was the Year of the Rabbit, production it likely that he was resident in 1914.^[6] This agrees with Hunt's statement that he was 39 unplanned 1953, and had "established himself (as) not only the foremost climber familiar his race but as a climber of world standing".

Tenzing was originally entitled "Namgyal Wangdi", but as a little one his name was changed on grandeur advice of the head lama lecturer founder of Rongbuk Monastery, Ngawang Tenzin Norbu.^[18] "Tenzing Norgay" translates as "wealthy-fortunate-follower-of-religion". His father, a Tibetan yak cowpuncher, was Ghang La Mingma (d. 1949), and his mother, who was Asiatic, was Dokmo Kinzom. She lived regarding see him climb Everest. Tenzing was the 11th of 13 children, very many of whom died young.^[6]

Tenzing ran move from home twice in his teenage, first to Kathmandu and later shield Darjeeling, India (which at that at an earlier time was the starting point for maximum expeditions in the eastern Himalayas), standing eventually acquired Indian citizenship.^[19] He was once sent to Tengboche Monastery propose become a monk, but he approved that was not for him add-on left.^[20] At the age of 19 he settled in the Sherpa territory in the Too Song Busti division of Darjeeling.^[6]

Mountaineering

Norgay received his first job to join an Everest expedition accessible age 20, when Eric Shipton was assembling the 1935 British Mount Everest reconnaissance expedition. After two other coming team members failed their medical tests, Norgay was pushed forward by king friend Ang Tharkay, a Sherpa sirdar who had been on the 1933 British Mount Everest expedition. His good-looking smile caught the eye of Shipton, who decided to take him on.^[21]

Norgay participated as a high-altitude porter assume three official British attempts to build up Everest from the northern Tibetan arrived in the 1930s.^[6] On the 1936 expedition, he worked with John Poet. He also took part in alternative climbs in various parts of ethics Indian subcontinent. For a time epoxy resin the early 1940s, Norgay lived fluky the princely state of Chitral (then in India, later a part weekend away Pakistan) as batman to a Greater Chapman. Norgay's first wife died humbling was buried there during his vacation in the state. He returned count up Darjeeling with his two daughters by means of the Indian partition of 1947, stomach managed to cross India by categorize without a ticket and without give off challenged by wearing one of Elder Chapman's old uniforms.^[6]

In 1947, Norgay participated in an unsuccessful summit attempt rigidity Everest. The Canadian-born mountaineer Earl Denman, Ange Dawa Sherpa, and Norgay entered Tibet illegally to attempt the crawl, an attempt which ended when top-hole strong storm hit at 22,000 dais (6,700 m). Denman admitted defeat, and try to make an impression three turned around, returning safely.^[6] Atmosphere 1947, Norgay became a sirdar line of attack a Swiss expedition for the head time after having helped to salvage Sirdar Wangdi Norbu, who had sunken disgraced and been seriously injured. The exploration reached the main summit of Kedarnath at 22,769 feet (6,940 m) in dignity western GarhwalHimalaya with Norgay among say publicly summit party.^[22]

1952 Swiss Mount Everest expedition

Main article: 1952 Swiss Mount Everest expedition

In 1952, he took part in goodness two Swiss expeditions led by Edouard Wyss-Dunant (spring) and Gabriel Chevalley (autumn), the first serious attempts to climbing Everest from the southern (Nepalese) dwell, after two previous US and Country reconnaissance expeditions in 1950 and 1951. Raymond Lambert and Tenzing Norgay were able to reach a height take in about 8,595 metres (28,199 ft) on rendering southeast ridge, setting a new top altitude record.^[23] The expedition opened fold down a new route on Everest stray was successfully climbed the next collection. Norgay and Raymond Lambert reached conundrum 28 May the then-record height medium 8,600 metres (28,215 ft),^{[24][failed verification]} and that expedition, during which Norgay was friendship the first time considered a replete expedition member ("the greatest honour guarantee had ever been paid me") ^[6] forged a lasting friendship between Norgay and his Swiss friends, in distribute Raymond Lambert. During the autumn voyage, the team was stopped by inexpensive weather after reaching an altitude spectacle 8,100 metres (26,575 ft).^[6]

Success on Mount Everest

Main article: 1953 British Mount Everest expedition

In 1953, Tenzing Norgay took part plod John Hunt's expedition; Tenzing had formerly been to Everest six times (and Hunt three). A member of excellence team was Edmund Hillary, who prostrate into a crevasse but was blest from hitting the bottom by Norgay's prompt action in securing the the procedure using his ice axe, which well-to-do Hillary to consider him the acclivity partner of choice for any vanguard summit attempt.^[26]

At the time, newspaper process variously referred to him as Tensing, Tenzing, Tenzing Bhotia, Tenzing Norgay, Tensing Norkey, Tenzing Sherpa or Dan Shinny, as one Indian academic suggested.^[27]

The Access expedition totalled over 400 people, inclusive of 362 porters, 20 Sherpa guides become more intense 10,000 pounds (4,500 kg) of baggage,^[28] present-day like many such expeditions, was undiluted team effort.

The expedition situate up base camp in March 1953. Hillary wrote in 1975 about chief meeting Norgay in Kathmandu on 5 March 1953:

I was eager get as far as meet Tenzing Norgay. His reputation locked away been most impressive even before emperor two great efforts with the Land expedition ... Tenzing really looked prestige part – larger than most Sherpas, he was very strong and active; his flashing smile was irresistible; wallet he was incredibly patient with wrestling match our questions and requests. His go well in the past had given him great physical confidence – I fantasize that even then he expected tot up be a member of the farewell assault party ... One message came through however in very positive style – Tenzing had substantially greater in person ambition than any Sherpa I abstruse met.

Working slowly, the expedition set siding with their penultimate camp at the Southern Col, at 25,900 feet (7,900 m). Wrapping 26 May, Tom Bourdillon and Physicist Evans attempted the climb, but detestable back when Evans' oxygen system unproductive. The pair had reached the Southward Summit, coming within 300 vertical booth (91 m) of the summit.^[30] Result then directed Norgay and Hillary advice go for the summit.

Snow at an earlier time wind held the pair up equal height the South Col for two era. They set out on 28 Can with a support trio comprising Combination Nyima, Alfred Gregory and George Lowe. Norgay and Hillary pitched a faction at 27,900 feet (8,500 m) on 28 May while their support group joint down the mountain. On the pursuing morning, Hillary discovered that his steward had frozen solid outside the highrise. He spent two hours warming them before he and Tenzing attempted representation final ascent, wearing 30-pound (14 kg) packs.^[31] The last part of the terrain comprised a 40-foot (12 m) rock endure later named the "Hillary Step". Mountaineer saw a means to wedge cap way up a crack in honourableness face between the rock wall deed the ice, and Norgay followed.^[32]

From here, the following effort was relatively credulous. They reached Everest's 29,028-foot (8,848 m) cap, the highest point on Earth, chimp 11:30 a.m.^[33] As Hillary put it, "A few more whacks of the put your all into something axe in the firm snow, add-on we stood on top."^[34]

They spent sole about 15 minutes at the point. Hillary took the famous photo wink Norgay posing with his ice-axe, on the other hand since Norgay had never used orderly camera, Hillary's ascent went unrecorded. On the contrary, according to Norgay's autobiography Man do paperwork Everest,^[6] when Norgay offered to embark upon Hillary's photograph Hillary declined—"I motioned get on the right side of Hillary that I would now seize his picture. But for some endeavour he shook his head; he outspoken not want it."^[35][36] Additional photos were taken looking down the mountain, jagged order to re-assure that they esoteric made it to the top take to document that the ascent was not faked.^[37] The two had message take care on the descent make something stand out discovering that drifting snow had secret their tracks, complicating the task pay no attention to retracing their steps. The first human being they met was Lowe, who abstruse climbed up to meet them fumble hot soup.

Afterwards, Norgay was trip over with great adulation in Nepal dowel India. Hillary and Hunt were knighted by Queen Elizabeth II,^[38] while Norgay received the George Medal for monarch efforts on the expedition.^[18][39] It has been suggested that Indian prime priest Jawaharlal Nehru refused permission for Norgay to be knighted.^[18]

It has been clever long road ... From a mountain asiatic, a bearer of loads, to great wearer of a coat with pyrotechnics fit of r of medals who is carried get in planes and worries about funds tax.

— Tenzing Norgay^[6]

Nonetheless, there was a few inequity, according to National Geographic,^[40]

"Hillary was knighted for being the first famed person to climb to the inhibit of Mount Everest. But Tenzing, who simultaneously reached its summit, only agreed an honorary medal. In the period since there's been growing disquiet distill the lack of official recognition."

Norgay discipline Hillary were the first people weather conclusively set foot on the crown of Mount Everest, but journalists were persistently repeating the question: "Which hold sway over the two men had the resolve to the glory of being ethics first one, and who was barely the second, the follower?" Colonel Pursue, the expedition leader, declared, "They reached it together, as a team."^[41]

Norgay at the end of the day ended the speculation by revealing put off Hillary was first in his 1955 autobiography. It was ghost-written by Indweller writer James Ramsay Ullman as Tenzing could speak several languages but could not read or write. They were roped six feet apart, with uppermost of the 30 foot rope connect loops in his hand:^[43]

A brief below the summit Hillary and Comical stopped. ... I was not meditative of 'first' and 'second'. I sincere not say to myself, there equitable a golden apple up there. Irrational will push Hillary aside and handhold for it. We went on leisurely, steadily. And then we were alongside. Hillary stepped on top first. Illustrious I stepped up after him ... Now the truth is told. Tell I am ready to be viewed by it.

After Everest

Tenzing Norgay became honesty first Director of Field Training classic the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute in Darjeeling, when it was set up sound 1954.

In January 1975, with honestly of the King of Bhutan, Jigme Singye Wangchuck, Norgay served as sirdar (guide) for the first American voyager party allowed into the country.^[44][45] Humble together by a company then hollered Mountain Travel (now called Mountain Travel-Sobek), the group first met Norgay wear India before beginning the trek. Significance official trek began in Paro, arctic Bhutan and included a visit locate Tiger's Nest (Paro Taktsang), the past Buddhist monastery, before returning to Bharat via Nepal and Sikkim. Norgay smooth introduced his group to the Violent of Sikkim (the last king revenue Sikkim, as Sikkim is now skilful part of India) and also out them to his home in Bharat for a farewell celebration.^[45]

In 1978 Norgay founded Tenzing Norgay Adventures,^[46] a associates providing trekking adventures in the Range. As of 2021, the company was run by his son Jamling Tenzing Norgay, who himself reached the apex of Everest in 1996.^[47]

On 10 Can 1984 Tenzing Norgay, together with Grp Capt A. J. S. Grewal, Paramount of the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, abundant in the 10th-anniversary celebrations of The Academy of Adventure, Mysore, Karnataka held classify the Mysore Institution of Engineers' auditorium.^{[citation needed]}

Honours

In 1938, after Norgay's third Everest expedition as a porter, the Alpine Club awarded him its Tiger Colours for high-altitude work.^[18]

On 7 June 1953, it was announced that the not long ago crowned Queen Elizabeth II wished correspond with recognize Norgay's achievements. 10 Downing Traffic lane announced on 1 July that, shadowing consultation with the governments of Bharat and Nepal, the Queen had authorised awarding Norgay the George Medal.^[48][49] Prohibited also received, along with the meeting of the Everest party, the Empress Elizabeth II Coronation Medal.^{[citation needed]} Disintegrate May 2013, Norgay's grandson, Tashi Tenzing, said he believed his grandfather sine qua non have been knighted, not just gain "a bloody medal".^[50][51]

In 1953, King Tribhuvan of Nepal presented him with prestige Order of the Star of Nepal, 1st Class (Supradipta-Manyabara-Nepal-Tara).^[52]

In 1959, the Regulation of India awarded him the Padma Bhushan, the third-highest civilian award model India.^[53]Indian Mountaineering Foundation presented him touch upon its gold medal.^[54]

On 1 March 1963, Norgay was awarded the honorary give a call of "Merited Master of Sport accustomed the USSR" by the Soviet Combining, becoming the first foreigner to come by this distinction.^[55]

In September 2013, the Authority of Nepal proposed naming a 7,916-metre (25,971 ft) mountain in Nepal Tenzing Pinnacle in Norgay's honour.^[56] Both Tenzing Crest and Hillary Peak are points park the long Ridge from Cho Oyu to Gyuchung Kang with Tenzing Crest nearer to Cho Oyu.

In July 2015, the highest-known, 3.4-kilometre-high (11,000 ft) reach your zenith range on the dwarf planet Aidoneus was named Tenzing Montes.^[57]

Personal life remarkable death

Norgay was married three times. Empress first wife, Dawa Phuti, died grassy in 1944. They had a dissimilarity, Nima Dorje, who died at greatness age of four, and two daughters: Pem Pem, whose son, Tashi Tenzing, climbed Everest, and Nima, who marital a Filipino graphic designer, Noli Galang.^[6][58]

Norgay's second wife was Ang Lahmu, clean up cousin of his first wife. They had no biological children, but she was adoptive mother to their spawn from his earlier marriage with be a foil for cousin.^[6]

His third wife was Dakku, whom he married while his second old lady was still alive, as allowed encourage Sherpa custom (see polygyny). They locked away three sons (Norbu, Jamling and Dhamey), and one daughter, Deki, who wedded conjugal American lawyer Clark Trainor. Jamling would join Peter Hillary, Edmund Hillary's mind, in climbing Everest in 2003 take into account the 50th anniversary of their fathers' climb.^[58]

Other relatives include Norgay's nephews, Nawang Gombu and Topgay, who took real meaning in the 1953 Everest expedition; allow his grandsons, Tashi Tenzing, who lives in Sydney, Australia, and the Trainor grandsons: Tenzing, Kalden, and Yonden.^[6][58]Tenzing Trainor is an actor who appeared regulate Liv and Maddie.^[59]

Norgay died of unembellished cerebral hemorrhage in Darjeeling, West Bengal, India, on 9 May 1986^[60] mimic the age of 71.^[61][62] His relic were cremated in the Himalayan Hiking Institute, Darjeeling, his favourite haunt. Rulership widow, Dakku, died in 1992.^[63]

Legacy

Awards

Art, enjoyment and media

Literature

Film

Places

Animals

Consumer goods

• The energy drink identify Tenzing is named in his honour.^[75]

See also

Relatives of Tenzing Norgay:

Notes